Best waterproof membrane

I often get asked the question, "What are the different types of waterproofing membranes, what is the best waterproof coatings to fix water leaks for roof, my balcony, basement, retaining walls.

There are three basic membranes on the market. There's a lot more but those three that sort of come out more commonly.

Sheet waterproof membranes

Torch On Membranes – these are Sheet Membrane which is commonly welded with heat torches.

Bituminous Sheet Membranes commonly bonded with an adhesive.

Liquid Applied Membranes – spray apply or brush & trowel application.

Liquid waterproof membrane

Liquid Rubber is an Elastomeric, Seamless & Flexible One Coat Spray On Waterproof System for Roof, Balcony, Retaining Walls & Basements.

Some of the advantages of using liquid membranes are numerous but to try and short circuit it, they're flexible. This is a major part of it.

            They move and rake with the building. They are able to be applied in to areas which other sheet type membranes can't be. They can be terminated and bonded to the surface that you're putting them on to. Sheet membranes don't always allow that to happen.

            It's not really a competition between sheet and liquid, but I'm trying to give some of the advantages of using liquid, which is why we do use liquid membranes.

Liquid membranes also are quite quick when need be. If the weather conditions allow, we can do about a 1000m2 in a day, which is pretty substantial coverage.

We're in, we're out. We get the job done, and it's curing out pretty quickly with our instant set material.

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            The bonding side of it is critical as far as waterproof membranes. Often other types of membranes will de-bond over a period. Then once they de-bond and start to leak, you can end up with a waterbed type effect. The water leak might be some many meters away from where it actually comes in to the building, which is a crucial part of it.

            Everybody might look for a leak at point A but it's actually coming out at point B. Whereas liquid membranes, are fully bonded to the surface. If there's a leak, if someone does puncture there membrane somehow, the leak will be where the puncture is. 

You can easily rectify it and repair it in a flash. That's a very, very good way to go about using liquid membranes.

The footings of the basement and retaining walls are critical. It's usually the "live" joint as we term it. That's the joint between the slab or the footing and then the wall is in place on top of that.

            This is usually where a leak will occur if it's going to leak. Particular attention is paid by all our applicators. FEW methodology is to get down on that by hands and knees basically and get right in to that joint with brush on material. This is then applied thoroughly in to that joint to make sure that that joint will not leak. Even if you don't put another membrane on it that joint will not leak. This is important.

            What we do is we get right down, get it coated, get two or three coats on there, and prepare it up. If it's a nice clean junction, we'll actually use a polyethylene fabric on that as a reinforcement barrier as well that's embedded in to the liquid rubber. Then once that's done, the overall membrane is applied over the top.

Effectively on that joint, you patch over about five or six coats of membranes. You can understand it's a very substantial part of the job and a very substantial coating that goes on it in retrospectively.

            After that's done, the coatings are on and they're all cured, we then use a protection sheet to protect that beautiful work that's all just being done. The protection sheet that we use is a sticky back material, which means it's a peel and stick. You rip the backing of it, stick it on the membrane so that it doesn't shift and move about when the excavators are coming back in to backfill those areas.

            This is critical because otherwise, vines, stones, and things can get down the back of conventional type protection sheets that will cause an amazing amount of damage to the membrane. This will puncture the membrane and start to leak.

            Quite often, I'm being faced with builders who think they know what they're doing. They'll put the protection sheet in, backfill with scoria or crushed rock, and so on. Then after it sets out, it's leaking. Why?

            Once it's dug out, we understand why because you pull the protection sheet out. It's full of stones and everything behind, lots of little holes in that membrane that's all going on there. It's not just our membrane, this is other membranes as well. It's critical to protect the membrane, very often overlooked.

The practices for doing retaining walls and basements are critical. In these areas, they're going to be usually backfilled so that you get one shot at doing this and that's it.

The preparation is paramount. The surfaces must be absolutely clean, preferably as dry as possible. Our material will take some minor amounts of moisture but generally they need to be bone dry.

            This is always a challenge because they're underground usually. Of course, with inclement weather, you have water coming in all the time.  It needs to be carefully planned. Anybody in construction needs to prepare it properly and think about how they're going to do this. It's always disregarded and disrespected actually in the industry.

            The best way, simplest way is keep it clean. Keep it dry. Keep the surfaces smooth and as harmonious as possible so the membrane will bond to it and you don't have little holes and divets to fill up all the time. This is a paramount part of preparation, which is our meticulous way. All our applicators go about and are trained in this fashion.

Waterproofing balconies can be quite tricky. They are often tiled, some aren't, but mostly they are. People will often ask us, "Paul, can we come in here and put a membrane over the top on those existing tiles?" Obviously, it's cheaper to do that because you don't have to remove the tiles and everything else that's underneath it.

            The danger here is that the substrate, being the tiles themselves, needs to be sound. It's critical that it's sound because if you are putting any sort of membrane over the top of loose and drummy tiles, drummy being they're not bonded correctly. If you tap underneath, you make a drumming sound. That's why it's called drumming.

            If you try to put a membrane over the top of that, there is a very, very good chance that it's going to come off. The tile will come away with the membrane. In doing so, it will tear the membrane. Even a highly flexible membrane can still be damaged by this sort of occurrences.

            We tend to recommend against putting membranes over the top of tiles. There are some minor, specific cases where we'll do it but only a few. Generally, the balcony should be stripped right back to zero, go right back to bare bones.

            That can be right up back to the actual structure, which if it's a very bad, has been leaking very badly over some years, this is the way to go because you can check the structure, and as certified builders, we can check actually do that. We can check the structure and make sure that it's not rutted out. There's been a number of balcony collapses in recent times and unfortunately some deaths. This is something that needs to be checked thoroughly.

            If there's damage, we'll replace that damage and as Registered Builders we can do that. Once that's done, we can rebuild the whole balcony from the ground up. We usually use more modern materials that are available on the market today, which is called a scyon board, and that's a really top notch base to work from.

            Once that's down, we then apply our membrane. We use reinforcing materials in our membrane to make sure that it's super strong. Then a screed will be applied over the top of that membrane to get the level so the water will run to the draining system, below the tiles, not on top of the tiles. This is a crucial part of tiling.

The biggest misconception for tiled surfaces is that water runs off the top of the tiles and goes to drainage. It does that but that's not the critical part of it. It also loses its way through the grout lines because even a freshly grouted balcony will shed water first a period of time. 

Then the grout will shrink. It will get minor tiny cracks but water will seep in to those cracks, go down underneath the tile and hit the membrane, which is there.

            This is a crucial part of this formula because we put a membrane on the bottom. We put the screed down. Then we put a membrane over the top of that screed. Then the tiles are fixed to that membrane. This allows the water then to flow through the tiles.

            This is crucial and everybody needs to really pick up their ears. It does flow through the tiles. They might laugh and say, "Oh, now you need silicone. That will stop that." All the rest of it, it doesn't work. I guarantee you this.

            I’ve had over 35 years of experience, I've seen so many of these jobs with people and really well qualified builders stand there and talk word on the face, "Mate, it will not leak through the tiles," and I can tell you it does, all right? I’ll get to the point wherever I need to. This is the way I'm going to do it.

            The whole issue is that membrane underneath the tiles needs to be substantial membrane, of course. The water hitting that membrane needs to flow through the draining system. That might be puddle drains, strip drains, whatever it might be. It depends on the design.

            Once the water slowly, slowly works its way through to that drain, it will go away, of course.  Now, while it's doing that, that membrane needs to be able to support water. When I say support, where I mean hold it up. I mean be able to coat with that water over a long period of time. Because as you can imagine, the time that water works its way through the grout lines, gets through the adhesive, and it does work its way through the adhesive.

            The adhesive needs to be the right adhesive so it can support that water. Again, it's got to be a submersible type adhesive. This will then allow the adhesive to remain intact and not re-emulsify, which I see many, many times, and that's the white stuff coming out through the grout lines. The extra adhesive breaks down with water. The water then moves its way through the membrane.

            It's sitting on that membrane for a very long time. If you grab a bucket of membrane or you look a lot of membranes off the shelf, you're going to label and say, "This is not for ponding water." This is a crucial part of waterproofing. Ponding water often destroys membranes.

            You might say, "It's a waterproofing membrane. How can it destroy it?" Well, it does. It's not designed to hold water. You must have a membrane that holds water. Liquid rubber holds water. It's designed for ponds, swimming pools, reservoirs and the like. It's designed to actually contain water. This is a major part of why we use this material.

            The water then slowly, slowly, works its way down to the drainage points. The membrane stays intact because it's suitable. The adhesive stays intact because it's suitable. Of course, the tiles are made of fortified clay, so that's not going to be destructed too readily. This is the waterproofing system, and it's crucial to waterproofing.

Membranes will last in varying degrees. The average life span of most membranes is around 25 years to 30 years. The industry sort of dictates a 10-year warranty on everything. It seems to have locked in on everything. Yes, we offer a 10-year warranty. If we need to, we can offer 10 years, 15 years, 20 years or 25 years if we need to. That's sort of the going situation as far as our terminology for warranties if you like.

            But the reality of it is if you’re going to put a membrane down, you really want it to last. We use high quality materials, not the cheapest on the market I can tell you that, but they certainly are a high quality material. The reason we do that is we want them to last.

As the consumer is using this product, again, at the end of the story, they don't really want to be calling us back in 10 years, 15 years to say, "The membrane's broken down. It doesn't work."

            Given that, the timing on it will vary depending on its use, of course. It's like putting that carpet in your home. If you just traipse over it and you bring the army through it every day, it's going to last a very short time. Isn’t it? If your old couple that use it every day now and then potter about your carpet, it's going to last forever pretty much.

            This is the same analogy it goes with membranes. It's a wearable surface like any other no matter what membrane goes down. It's subject to wearability. It's subject to how it's treated afterwards. They do get mashed about by other sub trades behind.

 For example, I'm not putting it down but the air-conditioning guys and people working on the roof, they tend to be a little bit rough, put the tool boxes down and gouge in to the membrane, throw down spanners, throw down hot materials, drills holes at a metal and the hot metal goes down, burns through the membranes. This is all membranes. It's not just ours.

            We see atrocities all day every day. I'm not going to tell you. It does wind us up. People should be more careful with membranes but if they are, they last for a very, very long time.

Hello, this is Paul - Findlay-Evans Waterproofing, Liquid Rubber Melbourne. We've got a case study here on a roof top in Albert Street in  East Melbourne. It's the CoInvest Building. We were asked to come in by a facilities manager to inspect the roof first of all to see if there's anything we can do about it. 

 This roof has been leaking for many years and many have come and tried a remediation on it. There is a big underlying issue on this particular roof. Many people have come and put patches all over it to try and stop leaks intermittently. 

The leaks are basically being caused by in this particular case by a bitumen base that's been laid when the original building was built. The someone has come along and put an acrylic membrane on top of that. The gas builds up from the bitumen as soon as it heats up but blowing holes in the membrane and causing leaks. 

So we had a task ahead of us to get that one sorted. So what we had to do was to work our way through the various areas. As you can see it's an extremely busy roof  with lots of equipment. We opened up some sections and found the bitumen was throughout the whole building which was naturally expected. 

Once we thoroughly cleaned the job, we went through meticulous preparation. Each and every  up stand, joint, junction, post - everything had to be  detailed at length. Then a reinforcing fabric was installed over the entire job and all the pop up stands as well just to make sure we had a good tough membrane. 

The areas where the bitumen had caused a lot of devastation down in the existing membrane we cut out completely. We treated them to a coat of our Thermo coat to isolate the bitumen. Then filled it with grout  and floated it up. There were lots of low spots in the roof that was allowing water to pool. They were also floated up with screed and coated with our system. 

Once we had everything prepared with the fiberglass matting we then proceeded to put our Thermo Top Coat on. This went down  in many layers and getting everything detailed up. Once we had it to a stage where we could work out where the out gassing was happening we out in many vents and the vents were delineated with the yellow colour - that and all trip hazards were all delineated with yellow so that there was no potential trips. 

The job was completed and the project manager came to inspect it and was delighted to see the end result  and the job worked out to be really good.

​Hello, it's Paul Evans, Findlay-Evans Waterproofing  & Liquid Rubber Melbourne.

Just got a case study here we'd like to share with you. It's a very tricky industrial roof in the city. Actually on a historic building, a power station that provides power for a lot of the new high rise buildings that have been built up around it.

 We were asked to come in through another contractor. The builder in this case, who needed professional waterproofers and a specialized system to rectify a badly deteriorated roof, which was leaking into the power station. 

So we took the challenge on and 

developed a system that would work and were very happy with the results. We'd just like to share that with you. 

In a nutshell what it pretty much is was five separate roof areas over the whole span of the building. Being an old Victorian building, various roofs were built up over time. 

So each roof had to be pretty much dealt with individually. We pretty much pumped up all the grout to the roof from the ground floor. A task in itself and then spread that across the entire surface filling up all the voids and cracks. Giving us a new surface to apply a specialized membrane. 

 We let that dry out and then we started spraying our Liquid Rubber membrane over the top and built that up to a 1.5mm thickness. Specialist areas were treated with reinforcing mat. This one  was sprayed with a dark grey rubber to help reflect the heat a little bit. 

It also became quite handy for the builders when they had multiple stairs joining into various levels. 

The job was very successful. The client was very happy with the results.

Hello, this is Paul, from Findlay-Evans waterproofing. Just would like to share a job that we have recently completed. 

 Just to describe step by step how we went about it. 

It was reasonably small home, by the seaside in Victoria. The owner who's an architect decided that he would like to have green roof. So we went ahead and waterproofed his rooftop balcony.  This was laid with scyon sheeting first. 

Preparation was fairly methodical in this case. We went over the top of the polyurethane that the builders had installed. Every single joint and fixing point throughout the whole area. Then we masked off and got ready for spraying. We went ahead and got the Liquid Rubber coating applied. Nice coat of approximately 1.5mm thick overall in one harmonious spray. No joins no seams, which is a very important part in our view. 

This way no water can get underneath and  the membrane is fully bonded to the surface. 

After the Rubber was down we allowed that to cure for about 2-3 week in this case. Then we came back can installed a product called Arma-Blue which is a self adhesive protection sheet. That protects the membrane from any damage.  

Later on we came back and installed the fake grass and made sure there was no bubbling and that the job was all finished off nicely.